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Took my first fishing trip to Yellowstone this July. I've always wanted to fish the park but things haven't worked out for a group trip, so I decided to go it alone. I had no guide, no itinerary, nothing but a clean cabin, camp stove, and cooler full of food.
I flew to Bozeman, Montana and rented an economy car with unlimited miles, stocked up on groceries and headed for the park. I stayed at a great little place called Roosevelt Lodge Cabins in the North East corner of the Park. Since I was staying for a week they gave me a great cabin that backed to Little Lost Creek. It was a "Rough Rider" cabin, which amounts to a clean and secure place to stow your gear, with nothing but a bed, desk, nightstand, electric light, and a wood burning stove for heat. Potable water was located at a tap just outside and the shower-house/restroom, restaurant/bar, and Hamilton store were just a short walk away. I met one of the park historians doing a survey, and he said that the cabin I stayed in was built in 1934 and was originally located over by Fishing Bridge at the outlet of Yellowstone Lake.
Day 1
Arrived in Bozeman around 11am. Stopped by Wally World and the local Safeway for provisions and set out for the park. I had one more stop to make at Park's Fly Shop in Gardiner to meet Walter, a fellow Missourian, who had helped plan my trip. Got to the park around 3pm. Cooked a steak dinner and then drove out to the Lamar Valley around 6pm. I should have brought a fishing rod, the Lamar was clear and caddis flies were coming off by the millions! Saw my first bear of the trip, lots of buffalo, a wolf track, and a beautiful sunset over the Lamar Canyon.
Day 2
Drove 40 miles south to the Upper Yellowstone. Stopped to admire the Upper and Lower Falls, the huge herd of buffalo in Hayden Valley, then headed to Fishing Bridge to watch 2 foot long cutthroat rising to caddis flies. Finally, got on the water around 10am. I fished pretty hard all day and fished at most of the access points between the Lake and Mud Volcano. Only saw one fish all day and put it down with my second cast. It was crowded and nobody else seemed to be having any luck either. Anyway it was sure an amazing river 3-15ft deep and 75-100 yards across in most places and multiple bugs hatching at any one time.
Day 3
After getting skunked on the Upper Yellowstone I decided to try some back-country fishing. Drove over to Hellroaring Trailhead, signed the trail register then hiked three miles to Hellroaring Creek. Hellroaring Trailhead is a pretty difficult trail if you are not in shape. It descends around 700ft of vertical in the first mile to a steel suspension bridge over the Yellowstone after that it's a pretty easy hike to Hellroaring Creek. Unfortunately, Hellroaring Creek was muddy from recent rains so I crossed back over the suspension bridge turned left and climbed down another 100ft to the Yancey Hole on the Yellowstone. The water was cloudy, but the salmon flies were pretty thick. I figured it was worth a shot and fished it for an hour our so with no avail. Elk Creek also flows into the Yellowstone a Yancey Hole. I was only 3-5ft wide, closer to a waterfall than a creek and covered with blown down lodge pole pines, perfect brook trout water. I tied on a #10 Royal Coachman Trude and proceeded to educate a bunch of brook trout in the next hour. Creeled two nice 10" brookies for lunch then slogged on up the hill. It made Cardiac Hill look like an escalator ride.
My confidence restored, I had a fine lunch of wild brook trout and a nap then headed over to Slough Creek. The lower meadow was muddy, but it was clear above the campground. I put in at the campground and fished upstream toward the canyon. I caught some small cutthroat trout on a crackleback but the real highlight of the trip was the wildlife. I figure I was ¾ of a mile above the campground fishing below a nice riffle. A mule deer doe walked down to the water not 20' away from me. We both seemed sur-prised to see each other but got over it. She went back to grazing I went back to fishing. About 10 minutes later I saw her ears shoot up. I couldn't see it but something was going on. I heard a big spash, turned and saw a small cinnamon bear crossed the stream barely 50' upstream from me. It crossed then wandered on up the ridge on the other side. At that point, I decided I had had enough adventures for one day.
Day 4
The little hike to Hellroaring Creek left my feet looking like hamburger so I decided to stick close to the car. I wanted to fish the Lamar but it was still muddy, but Soda Butte Creek was clear enough to fish. In the morning I fished the meadow water just south of Pebble Creek. Some PMD's were hatching and the fish seemed to prefer a PMD colored crackleback to a sparkle dun (Craig Matthews, eat your heart out!). I fished the lower section between Soda Butte and the Lamar that afternoon and had some incredible fishing. It seemed that the trick to catching meadow fish was to look for slower side channels, and undercuts keep a small beetle or hopper imitation tight against the bank. After catching five huge cutthroat trout from the same undercut I decided it was time for dinner. Got back to the cabin just in time to take some great pictures of a bear that wandered down from the hill behind my cabin.
Day 5
My feet felt better so I decided to take the trail to the upper meadows of Slough Creek. There is a fair amount of vertical on the trail, but not bad compared to Hellroaring Trail-head. It's a little over a mile to the first meadow, around three to the bottom of second meadow. My desire to fish overcame my desire to hike at the bot-tom of second meadow. I played around at the bot-tom of second meadow then fished down into the canyon section between first and second meadow. I didn't have much fishing success, but had a great time enjoying my surroundings. I enjoyed watching the marmots playing in the rocks, the wildflowers, and the butterflies. I wish I could say the experience of fishing first meadow was the equal of my morning adventure. I caught plenty of fish and some big fish, but there were just enough people around to ruin the experience. It looked like rain, so I headed back around four o'clock.
Day 6
Brimming with confidence, I headed back to the Upper Yellowstone. After hiking and looking for fish at virtually every access point between the lake and Mud Volcano, I spotted a sum total of two fish. The Upper Yellowstone is a dead fishery folks! Thoroughly tired and disappointed, I packed up and headed back to Roosevelt. I just reached Hayden Meadow when I realized I had left my rod on top of the car when I left Mud Volcano! There was a wildlife slowdown ahead, buffalo standing in the road, tour buses, mini-vans, people trying to pet buffalo, etc. Frantic, I threaded my way through the logjam of vehicles, beasts, and humanity, sped to the next turnaround, sped back and did it again! Fortunately, someone found the rod, the bad news was it was run over by a car! The funny thing was that the person who found the remnants of my rod felt worse than I did. You got to love those unconditional rod guarantees, now if we could only get them on reels (I plan to mount what is left of the reel with some pictures from the trip).
After my days experience I needed a little pick me up. So I headed over to Soda Butte Creek after dinner. The water was cloudier than the previous trip so I tied on a big black Chernobyl ant. The fish co-operated and again my confidence was restored.
Day 7
In the past five days of fishing I hadn't bothered to stop and fish the lower meadow of Slough Creek. It holds big fish and some really challenging fish, though surprisingly I don't think it is as crowded as the first upper meadow. I parked at the first lot, and then hiked down to VIP hole. A guide and two sports beat me too it. I talked to the guide and he said fish weren't even coming up for the live hoppers he was throwing on the water. The water was deep, wide, clear, and very glassy so I decided my best bet would be to hike upstream and try to spot risers rather than beating the water to froth. I managed to spot and catch a few with a small CDC hopper pattern. I moved up to the third lot after lunch, hiked down a hundred yards then fished back up to the camp-ground. The stream has a bunch of riffle water in this section, so I tied on the black Chernobyl again and worked my way upstream, again with good results, a fine end to a good week of fishing.
This was my first trip to the park, and I had a great time even though I limited my choices to the Upper Yellowstone, and streams in the northeast corner of the park. Mainly Slough Creek, the Lamar, Soda Butte Creek, and the Black Canyon of the Yellow-stone. It rained a lot. Out of the places I visited, Soda Butte Creek was the most consistent. I have yet to fish the Gibbon, the Firehole, and the legendary Madison. Then there is Grebe Lake, and the Yellowstone flowing out of Gardiner, MT. With so much unfinished business, I found it hard to get back on the plane. |
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