We will also have something new, a fly swap. Bring six flies wrapped in acontainer with no names on the container(you can put your name inside the container), all the containers will be put on a table. Everyone participating will get a number and the 1st number chosen gets to pick a container 1st. The 2nd number selected goes next, etc. Everyone participating will go home with six flies from another member.

We've had a pretty good 2001 with interesting speakers, a few fishing trips, and a conclave or two to attend. And 2002 also holds real promise. Remember, it's also the time of year to renew your annual membership, so put a check in the mail as soon as possible. And keep in mind checking our web site (www.ozarkflyfishers.org) for information and updates on our activities.

Before we get to 2002, we still have some unfinished business-- a meeting set for December 6 at the Museum of the Dog. This is our annual 'What I did On My Summer (spring, winter, fall) Vacation" session where club members show and tell about interesting places they've been. Roy Cleveland has asked a number of members to participate but if you would still like tell a little about a fishing hole that you've visited, call Roy at (636) 391-8314.

Several other changes are in the offing. The board voted in November to appoint a fly tying and casting chairs, and welcoming Tom Ziegler as our outings director. The fly and casting chairs will conduct demonstrations and contribute to the newsletter. We also want to see if we can organize a separate tying day or night on a regular basis and perhaps have an all-day outing or picnic.

The Ozark Fly Fishers and St. Louis County Parks and Recreation will again be conducting fly fishing classes, beginning in January. The first course, "Beginning Fly Fishing: A to Z," starts January 15 at Queeny Park. The classes will continue through May. For more information, contact the Parks and Recreation Department or check out our web site (www.ozarkflyfishers.org. ) for more information.

We are also looking at the possibility of working with groups of scouts to help them achieve a Boy Scouts of America Fly Fishing Merit Badge. We'll keep you posted and and we may need your help as volunteers.

As usual, there will be something for everyone. The Super Raffle and the Silent Auction once again will offer many new items of value and interest. Some commercial and some home grown (works of art by our own O.F.F. members). While you are enjoying your favorite libation during our cocktail hour from 6:30 till 8:00 you can browse the items and make your bids.

This year menu will feature Sautéed Boneless Breast of Chicken or Choice Strip Steak...with all the usual trimmings. This will be followed with your choice of Chocolate Raspberry Tart or good ol American Apple Pie. If you wonder if this was good last year, ask someone who attended.

The cost for this gala event will be $40 for couples and $25 for singles.

Remember, this is by reservation only. No dinner tickets will be sold at the door. All reservations must be received by mail. If your reservation is received after January 19th, we cannot guarantee you a seat at dinner(and we desire highly your fellowship and participation). Your prepaid dinner ticket will be waiting for you at the door just like last year.

Don't miss this once a year gathering. Good food, good fellowship, lots of great articles for bidding and lot's to talk about. We look forward to seeing you all there.

Send in your check and reservations using the form enclosed.

This month I am offering a 2 for 1 winter special. If you plan on doing some winter fishing, then go to the next section. Here I discuss keeping warm while fishing. If your plans are to take a winter's nap, then you can skip to the second section on how to winterize your equipment. However, you may want to read the first section if you plan on being outside for any period of time.

In general our winter season is not harsh. There will be the occasional day with temperatures in the 50-60's. On the flip side we will have a week or two of temps in the teens and 20's. By far, the majority of days will have temperatures in the 30's and 40's. This is great fishing weather, and the following guidelines will keep you warm and dry.

The human body is designed for tropical climates, and when our bodies fall a few degrees below 98.6 F we run into trouble with hypothermia. With cooler weather, we need a covering to maintain body temperature because the heat it produces is lost to the cooler air. Ideally, clothing should provide a balance between heat production and heat loss so that we feel neither hot nor cold. When we are active, the body creates heat and moisture which needs to be dispersed. When we are at rest, our bodies seek to conserve heat. Through the proper use of clothing layers we can assist in heat and moisture dispersal and at the same time assist in retaining body heat when needed.

The body loses heat in four ways, which determines how clothing has to function to keep your body temperature at equilibrium. The first way the body loses heat is through convection, which is the transfer of heat from the body to the air. This is the main cause of heat loss. Convection occurs whenever the air is cooler than the body. Think of a heat gradient with warm air moving toward cold air. The rate of heat loss from convection increases with air movement. As air moves across the body it removes body heat away. To prevent this, clothing must cut out the flow of air. Think of a windproof shell. The greatest amount of heat loss occurs from the head due to the amount of blood going to the head. It is essential that you wear a hat to prevent heat loss due to convection.

The second way the body loses heat is through conduction where heat is transferred from one surface to another. Air is not a good conductor of heat so the best way to prevent conductive heat loss is to wear clothing that traps and holds air in it's fibers such as wool, down or polar fleece. Water is a good conductor of heat, which means that if your skin is damp from sweat and your clothes hold the moisture you will cool down rapidly. Heat leaves your body and goes to the water. The more the water hangs around, the greater the heat loss. To prevent this, clothing must wick moisture away from the skin surface and transmit the perspiration to the outer layer of clothing so that the skin stays dry.

A third means of heat loss is evaporation. This occurs when sweat is transformed to water vapor. This process of transforming sweat to water vapor requires heat and results in heat loss or cooling of the body. Don't be fooled by winter weather. Exercise, such as walking through the woods, results in sweat. Clothing must transport the sweat away so that the body doesn't use up body heat converting it into water vapor.

The last means of heat loss is radiation, which is the process of passing heat directly between objects without warming the intervening space. It is the way the sun heats the earth and us on a sunny day. In our case we are worried about radiating body heat from the body to a surface away from the body. Tightly woven and smooth surfaces promotes radiation.

The reason for the above discussion is to give you an understanding of what clothes to wear and why. In order to keep warm in the winter, we must keep out the wind and the rain, expel sweat and trap heat, and at the same time prevent the body from cooling on one extreme and overheating on the other.

The best way to regulate your temperature is through the use of a layer system. Typically, a layer system consists of three layers: the inner layer that wicks moisture from the skin; the middle layer, which acts as a thermal layer; and the outer layer, which keeps out the wind and rain.

The primary purpose of the inner layer is to keep the skin dry rather than warm. If moisture remains on the skin, heat is lost by conduction so you want to remove sweat from the skin. The other layers will retain the heat. Think about what happens when you walk through the woods generating sweat. If moisture stays on the skin or in your clothes, you feel a chill. If your undergarments hold more water than air, more heat is conducted away from the body.

Fabrics remove body moisture in two ways: (1) absorption- where water is directly absorbed and taken into the fiber, and (2) wicking- where water is pulled off the surface of the skin but does not go directly into the fiber.

Modern convention holds that the inner layer should not be cotton. It absorbs moisture quickly but retains the moisture. It takes a lot of body heat to dry the cotton. Also, cotton clings to the skin and prevents an insulating layer of air from forming. Wool absorbs moisture like cotton, but is better that cotton in that it can hold more moisture and is better able to keep the skin dry. However, for many people wool is itchy.

Currently, the fabrics of choice for the inner layer are synthetics, which wick moisture from the surface. Synthetics wick moisture through four mechanisms. Some synthetics are non-absorbent or hydrophobic. They have an open weave and body heat pushes the water vapor through the fabric. Another group of synthetics are hydrophilic (water attracting). They at-tract water and pull it away from the skin. However, they do not absorb the water. A third group of fabrics absorb water but are able to pass it on to an outer surface where it quickly evaporates. The fourth group of synthetics combine layers that are hydrophobic with layers that are hydrophilic. These are called push-pull fabrics. Body heat pushes moisture through the inner layer, while the next layer pulls the moisture to the surface where it can evaporate. This is the principle behind Capilene.

Generally, when you wear wicking clothes they should be snug on the body and not worn loose. Remember the purpose of the inner layer is to remove moisture and to keep the skin dry. This can't be done efficiently if there is not good skin contact.

If you are going to go winter fishing, my suggestion is that you not wear a cotton under-shirt or long-johns. Rather, you should wear a synthetic T-shirt and synthetic under-wear. This will keep your skin dry and reduce heat loss. If your feet get cold, then I suggest a thin liner sock made from a synthetic to keep your feet dry. I don't wear more than one pair of medium weight socks in the winter. All too often people put on several layers of socks in the belief that it will keep their feet warm. However, multiple layers of socks us-ually result in circulation being cut off and your feet feeling cold. You will be surprised at how warm your feet stay with one pair of socks. Most of our local fly shops carry syn-thetic underwear that fulfill this layering re-quirement.

The middle layer of clothing is the thermal or insulating layer. This is the layer that traps air to keep us warm. However, it must also wick or absorb moisture away from the inner layer so that the inner layer does not be-come saturated and unable to keep your skin dry. Most people wear wool or fleece for this layer. Both have good insulating qualities. Like the inner layer, you don't want to wear a garment that is too loose, because you lose insulating efficiency if you have to heat big pockets of air. Sometimes you can get by with a large bulky sweater, but if the weather warms up and you start over-heating what do you do. It is easier to wear two light weight layers or a medium and light weight layer. If it warms up you can remove a layer. As the afternoon cools down you can put it back on. I like to wear 100 or 200 weight polar fleece depending on the weather. Buy one that has a zip front. Sometimes you can vent built up heat by un-zipping the top third. this also allows built up moisture to escape.

The outer layer keeps moisture out and the wind off the skin surface. Sometimes it is not the temperature outside that bothers us, but the wind. If you have a loosely woven sweater on, the wind can cut to the bone and put a chill on. I've often started a winter trip where the wind is calm in the morning, but invariably the wind kicks up in the after-noon, and you can be mis-erable without a windbreaker. Whether you wear a rain jacket or a windbreaker, my recommendation is buy one that is breathable. Believe it or not you can work up quite a sweat in the wintertime. If the outer garment is not breathable, moisture builds up inside and you become cold and clammy. There are a lot of affordable breathable fabrics out there besides Gore-tex. However, consider where you will be walking. If you are going to walk through a lot of brush and bramble, you may want to consider Gore-tex because it is a tough fabric. If your fishing is going to take place in the parks, then one of the other, less expensive fabrics may be for you. Many of the technical gear companies are putting out micro-fleece fabrics with windstopping properties. They are also water repellent. I believe Simms and Patagonia put out such a product. They are somewhat expensive, but are of high quality and should be long lasting.

A layering system allows you to reach maximum comfort in the winter without being too hot or too cold. My system is as follows: (1) Feet-- a thin pair of synthetic liner socks and a medium weight sock (Smartwool is good); (2) Legs-- lightweight, synthetic long underwear followed by a light layer of fleece pants if the weather is especially cold; (3) Torso and Arms-- a moisture wicking synthetic T-shirt on top of which I put on one of the following- a wool shirt, a 100-200 weight microfleece, or a wool swe-ater, or a combination of these depending on the temp-erature, and followed by a wind breaking shell. Some-thing like the windstopping garments serve the functions of insulation and wind-stopping in the same garment.

There is no reason why the cold should prevent you from fishing in the winter if you dress appropriately. You can stay warm and dry using the layer system. Always wear a hat. Use lip balm to prevent chapped lips. Most import-antly, always bring a towel and an extra, full set of cloth-ing if you should happen to fall in the river.**

** Much of the information contained in this article came from C. Townsend The Backpacker's Book (2 ed. 1997) Ragged Mountain Press, Camden, Mass.

The fly is called a "White Miller". There are two Mid-west species. Their Latin names are, "Epheron Leukon" and "Epheron Album". That's pretty freaky. A "White Album" fly. That's all I need, images of Charlie and his family flyfishing. Helter Skelter baby.

The Mayfly hatches from silt and this section of the river is perfect habitat. It begins its prolific emergence around mid August. The hatch starts at dusk and goes till early dark when the coolness of night stops it. Guys coming into the flyshop have begun to see bugs coming off so we're going.

Because this is also a social event, we're in charge of entertainment. On an Ozark bluff at night, there's only one choice. Pyrotechnics. We pull into one of the fireworks shops around Eureka. We pass up the usual firecrackers and bottle rockets. We want big stuff. The farther back you go into the store, the bigger the boom. We settle on a dozen large aerial rockets with varying displays. As I go to the counter to pay I walk by a beer cooler. Better get another case, you never know who will show up. As I wait for the girl to ring me up I notice that there are no snacks, candy, cigarettes, soda or anything else for sale. They sell fireworks and beer and nothing else. Is this a great country or what! The girl hands me a piece of paper. She tells me it's a form I have to sign promising not to shoot off these fire-works in Missouri. This is good. They just sold me beer and fireworks now they want me to promise to be responsible. Yeah sure, I'll sign it. I promise to drink the beer in Missouri but after that all guarantees are off.

There are a couple cars at Cardiac and as we pull into the parking lot at Suicide we see two buddies rigging up. They decide to go upstream. We'll head downstream to Diving Bluff Hole and the chance for a nice fish.

We slide down the bluff and start fishing. We swing streamers and drift prepubescent emergers as we head downstream. The fishing here is typical of a Missouri Department of Conservation managed fishery. A number of 9-11 inch fish, a few 19 and over and hardly any in the 14-17 inch quality range. It seems that no matter where the MDC tries to manage bass and trout for quality angling on our natural streams and rivers, we always have the same, at best, mediocre results. We fish all over the country; we know what a healthy, quality fishery looks like. We don't see it here. If the deer herds and turkey flocks were in as sad a shape as our stream fisheries are there would be complete outrage and none of these MDC guys would have a job. Get your heads out of the biology books boys. Get some "meaningful" enforcement on the water you're trying to manage for quality. Think "River Keepers". An old concept that works. It's time to protect what we have left and restore what's been degraded.

The bluff hole is beautiful in the waning light. We sit on the gravel bar to wait for the hatch. We light cigars and sip beers that Tom has brought in a backpack cooler. Works real well. At dusk a few flies start coming off but no fish rise to take them. As the hatch increases the fish start rising to the fly. We position ourselves in the river and start drifting a size 12 white fly. In the increasing darkness the hatch starts to explode and we start picking up fish. Tom gets a nice 14 incher but most are in the 10-11 inch range. We hear a bigger fish downstream in the dark gulping flies but we can't get a cast to him. The small fish are frenzied in their attacks, coming completely out of the water to take flies in the air. We fish furiously. Suddenly a chill runs down the dark river and the flies stop cold. For a little over an hour it was intense. We meet back on the gravel bar to begin the tough wade back upstream. It's eerie wading a river at night. Every step is filled with anxiety. Primitive thoughts of being prey surface. We don't need flashlights so we smoke and drink beer and keep pushing against the heavy current. Rootwads and trees help us up the bluff.

We're the last ones back. Some more guys have shown up. Chairs ring a table set with snacks and whiskey bottles. Smooth jazz riffs hang in the cool air. Cigars are lit and cocktails shaken not stirred. A hell of an Ozark fish camp.

Well the annual White Fly social has been a rousing success. Everybody caught fish and the camaraderie was excellent as usual. This is the kind of night that makes flyfishing what it is. Oh yeah. The rockets were spectacular. We put some Zeppelin on the box and Tommy ran around launching them out of my rod tube. He burned his hand but we had plenty of cocktail ice to soak it in. A grand Ozark night.

The rod should be washed with a warm, damp cloth using a mild soap. Use a toothbrush or Q-Tip to clean around the guides and reel seat.. Rinse using a clean damp cloth and then dry with a soft lint free cloth. Apply parafin wax to the ferrules. The grip can be cleaned using Comet or lacquer thinner to take the grime off the grip. Use lacquer thinner sparingly and in a well ventilated area. Wash and dry the rod bag (a damp bag is a source of mildew that can weaken your thread wraps and cork grip). Place the rod back in the tube and store in a cool, dry place ( under the bed works).

The reel can be cleaned with a toothbrush using warm water and mild soap. Rinse and dry with a lint free cloth. At this point, light oil can be applied to the handle and knob, latch mechanism and spindle. Your reel may require a small amount of grease around the spindle. Use a white lithium grease such as Bendex. If you own a Ross reel, oiling and greasing the reel can generally be skipped because they are designed to be low maintenance. Now if you're lazy like me, you take your reel in and have them clean and lube it for a small fee. Once the reel is cleaned, store it outside of its bag in a dark, dry place( I don't store my reels under the bed, unless in a closed box, because the occasional dust bunny undoes your cleaning efforts in short order).

As you clean your reel, remove the line and clip it off from the backing. Again clean your line using warm water and mild soap. 3M makes a scrub pad that's pretty good at removing the grime. You can find the scrub pad at your local fly shop. This is a good time to check your line for cracks. If you have a weight forward and you noticed your line sinking, it's probably a sign that there are cracks in your line. Throw it away and buy a new line. If you have a double taper, then this may be a good time to reverse the line. Mark the cracked and worn end so that you know which end to reattach to the backing next Spring. You should store your line off of the reel to prevent your line from developing coil memory. Wind your line in large loops and place in dust free container in a cool dry place. Some people wind their line around a 2 liter bottle. I prefer slightly larger loops. If your line is coiled as you pull it off the reel, simply pull and stretch it to remove the coils.

This is a good time to go through your leaders and tippet. Leaders are generally good for two years. If yours is two or more years old throw it away, even if you haven't used the leader. Leaders have a limited shelf life. If you are throwing a bunch of leaders away, then perhaps you should take stock of what leaders you use most frequently. Do you really need the 6x-7x leader? I generally use two 3x leaders(71/2 foot), three 4x leaders(1-- 71/2 foot, 2-- 9 foot) and two 5x leaders(both 9 foot). Mark your leader packets with a color code to let you know the age of your leader-- one color for even years and another color for odd numbered years. As for tippet, any tippet 5x-8x should be thrown away at the end of the season. Any larger sized tippet should be thrown away after two years. Ultra-violet light severely weakens the tippet. Don't buy tippet that has been on the shelf a while. Ask your fly shop if the leaders and tippet are fresh. Store your leaders and tippet in a dark, cool place.

Don't forget to pay attention to your waders and boots. You can clean your waders in a bathtub. Use a mild powdered detergent, then rinse and let them dry. First turn them inside out to dry and then dry the outside. Some people put their waders in the washer and dryer. However, Simms says that their breathable waders should never be machine washed. While you are washing your waders check for leaks and make repairs. Store your waders by hanging or laying them flat in a dark, cool place. Keep your waders out of sunlight because it may prematurely age them. Boots should be rinsed inside and out. Stuff newspaper into the boot to maintain its shape and then store upside down in dark, cool place. Check your laces. This is a good time to buy new ones instead of having them break on the first trip in Spring.

Finally, we come to the vest and fly boxes. Take everything out of your vest and take inventory of the useless stuff you carried around all year. Throw away the nonessential stuff. Wash and dry your vest. Fly boxes should be opened to allow the flies to dry. Leaving your flies damp will cause the hooks to rust and you can get mildew on your flies. Allow your flies to dry for a week or two and then close the boxes. You don't want dust to accumulate on the flies by leaving the box open all winter. This is also a good time to go through your boxes and reorgaize them. Do you have flies that you haven't used in 2 or 3 years? Put these in your miscellaneous box. Don't have them taking up space in a box that you use frequently. Take inventory and replenish your flies. Organize your boxes so that you don't spend time going through a bunch of boxes before finding the fly. You might organize your boxes according to the river (Meramec or Current). Some people color code their boxes-- black for streamers, green for nymphs, blue for dries, tan for emergers and soft hackles. Others organize their boxes by species-- caddis, mayfly, stonefly, terrestrial. Try to develop a system that works for you.

I've tried to cover the basics on how to stay warm and dry for those of you who want to do some winter fishing. For those of you who will soon take a winter's nap and dream of the season to come, cleaning and organizing your equipment will make for a more enjoyable start next season. Happy Holidays, John

My first choice of a topic for discussion is the FFF Casting Instructor Certification Program. Ozark Fly Fishers has a solid history of casting instruction and quite a few members have obtained this certification (their names are listed below).

The FFF Casting Instructor Certification Program was begun in 1992 for the purpose of enhancing the overall level of instruction in fly casting, including instructor knowledge, casting proficiency, and teaching ability.

The program is run by a volunteer arm of the FFF called the Casting Board of Governors and is made up of some of the most respected names in the world of fly fishing and include Gary Borger, Mel Krieger, Al Kyte, Steve Rajeff, Doug Swisher, Lou Tabory, Joan Wulff and other well-known experts.

To become a certified casting instructor one must be an FFF member, attend a casting instructor workshop, pass the certification exam, and pay the testing fees. The instructor workshop requirement is usually conducted immediately prior (the same day) as the exam and is presented by the testers. The certification exam consists of both a written and a casting performance test that demonstrates teaching/casting abilities. The written test consists of 36 multiple choice and true/false questions of which 30 of them must be answered correctly to pass. The casting performance test questions and detailed explanations for passing expectations are available on the FFF web site and are additionally supplied to the candidate after registering for the exam. The cost of taking the exam is $50 plus an additional $50 if you pass. These fees go directly to the federation and the testers are not paid (unless they charge an additional amount). There is also a $25 annual fee to remain registered as a certified casting instructor.

The performance portion of the exam on the surface doesn't seem difficult. One has to demonstrate a 75-foot cast, double hauling, and the roll cast etc. However, the testers will insist on very clean execution of the demonstrations. Everyone involved with the program is committed to very high standards for the sake of both the future students and the certified instructors themselves. Typically only 50% pass the certification exam on the first attempt. The test may be retaken within a year at no additional charge.

There are currently two levels of casting certification: FFF Certified Casting Instructor and FFF Certified Master Casting Instructor. The Certified Master Casting program was added in 1996. "We felt that two levels were necessary to separate those with a casual interest from those who want to master all areas of teaching and casting," said Thomas Theus, Formal Education VP for the FFF. Candidates for the Master Certified Fly Casting Instructor level must become an FFF Certified Instructor then they must pass a much more comprehensive oral and performance test. This includes demonstrating their instructor and casting ability before two members of the Federation's Board of Governors. A single Board of Governor or alternatively, two Certified Master Instructors may conduct a certification exam (first level).

It is important to understand that the certification is for casting instructor ability not just casting ability. The intent of the program is to develop extremely qualified casting instructors, not to certify someone only interested in fishing as a "good" caster. The FFF Board of Governors also encourages people to teach casting as much as possible whether they intend to become certified or not. It is a misconception that the Board of Governors think that only Certified Casters should be allowed to teach. However, the high standards of the program, to most people, command a great deal of respect and do truly mean something.

It's often quite surprising to note the disparity between the skills required to become a good caster and the skills required to become a good casting instructor. Scientists have discovered that the left side of the brain performs different functions than the right side of the brain. The left side handles most of the verbal and analytical tasks while the right side performs the artistic tasks. Once one learns casting (and fishing), it is very much a right side of the brain activity. That is why we enjoy fishing so much and it is also why time seems to pass so quickly while we're fishing. That is also why some very good casters have a difficult time explaining casting or analyzing casting faults because these tasks are left side of the brain activities and require some study to become proficient. The point is that it often requires a dedicated effort to become a very good casting instructor.

I have instructed casting in our clubs casting programs since the 80's when Dave Barron first established them. I also instructed in intermediate and advanced casting classes along with Dave Barron, Jerry Clark, and others since their inception in the early 90's. Until a couple of years ago, all of my instruction has consisted of volunteer effort relating to our club and I never felt any need to become certified. However, a couple of years ago Jerry Clark realized that his failing health would steadily limit his excellent leadership on our casting programs and he asked me to make sure that our clubs casting programs continued. I promised him that I would. I decided to become a better casting instructor and a dedicated student of casting. In March of 2000 I received my FFF Casting Instructor Certification and last August I received my FFF Master Casting Instructor Certification (on my third attempt).

The teaching of casting is a most important endeavor in promoting the sport of fly fishing. Every other aspect of the sport (tying flies, selecting and assembling tackle, finding fish, etc.) can be done by someone else. However, when it comes down to making that cast to catch the fish, nobody can help you do that. Beginners that can quickly get over the hump and learn to cast typically establish a lifetime enjoyment from the sport -- those that don't usually quickly abandon it. Our mission is to make sure that they don't abandon the sport and revert back to the spinning rod. Fly-fishing is simply more challenging and fun. The teaching of casting is also an extremely rewarding experience. I can't tell you how many times someone (that I don't recognized) has approached me on the stream and thanked me for helping them with their casting at some previous conclave or class etc.

There are also many other members in our club that have no desire to become certified but play a vital role in our casting programs. I understand their position and I respect it. I was there once. I sincerely hope that they continue to contribute to our casting programs. However, I would also encourage them to consider becoming certified if they are so inclined.

Certified Instructors donate a great deal of their time at trade shows and conclaves and they should be commended for it. They are a great resource for our club so please take advantage of their knowledge and services. The currently certified casting instructors in our club are listed below.

FFF Certified Master Casting Instructors:

• Richland Center WI, Dave Barron
• St. Louis MO, Brian Ellis

FFF Certified Casting Insturctors:

• Ballwin MO, Jack Birkner
• Dittmer MO, Bill Armon
• Edwardsville IL, Larry Carli
• St. Charles MO, Michael Webb
• St. Louis MO, Jerry Clark
• St. Louis MO, Ed Story
• St. Louis MO, Robert Story
• St. Louis MO, Robyn Story
• St. Louis MO, Robert Temper
• St. Louis MO, Thomas Ziegler
• Tecumseh MO, Shawn Taylor

There are so many others who make this club as successful as it is. Drew Spanogle continues to do a wonderful job with the newsletter. Joe Aimonette, Jerry Clark, Russ Hill, Bill Hale, Steve Antronic, Jerry Phelan, Max Anderson, the list goes on and on? All of these people and so many others are really the story why this club has continued to thrive for the last three decades. They can't do it alone. Feel free to volunteer and join in. It's as easy as asking a club director or officer if they need any help.