| I know, I know. When are we going to get to the good stuff? Hold your horses, it's coming. This month we finish up with the basics on equipment. We will cover line, leader and tippet. Next month we will move on to fishing or what ever else you want me to cover. I'm open to suggestions. Anyway back to the subject of terminal tackle.
Fly Lines. Remember the weight of the fly line is what causes the rod to flex and bend. Therefore, your line weight should match your rod weight. There are some rods out there that don't seem to flex as well with their matched line weight and you may have to go a line heavier to get the proper loading of the rod. The best thing to do when you purchase a new rod is to try different weight lines to see which one works best for you.
By now you've read a couple of books talking about floating lines and sinking lines. If you are new to the sport, don't worry about sinking lines or sinking tips. If you are fishing for trout or smallmouth bass, ninety-five percent of your fishing will be done with a floating line. I've been fyfishing for 14 years and don't own a sinking line. Sinking lines or sink tips may come into play when you are steelhead fishing or fishing deep in some lakes, but if you aren't into this type of fishing then stick with the floating line. If you are thinking about a sinking line then see your local fly shop for advice.
Floating lines generally come as level line, weight forward, or double taper. Forget about the level line. I know it only cost $7.00, but why not take advantage of technology to improve your casting distance and presentation. When looking at fly lines you will often see a designation on the box like WF5F or DT4F. The first line is a weight forward 5 wt. line that floats. The second line is a double taper 4 wt. floating line.
A fly line is generally composed of a tip, front taper, belly, rear taper and running line. The first four components are often referred to as the head. The tip connects the leader to the line and is about six inches long. The line gradually increases in diameter and forms the front taper. This section is 4-8 feet long. The taper affects how your casting energy is transferred and how delicately or how powerfully you present your fly. After the front taper, the line reaches its maximum diameter and forms the belly. Most of the line weight is in this section and this is the part that carries your cast. The belly at its back end forms a rear taper and the line gradually decreases in diameter. Again these first four components form the head. Behind the head is a running line, which is of small diameter and allows the line to shoot through the guides for long casts and allows for easier mending.
The weight forward line is the most commonly used line. It generally has a short belly and long running line. Hence the name weight forward. The weight forward allows you to cast short to long distances. The forward weight on the line and thin running line allows the line to shoot through the guides for longer distances. Some people believe the presentation with a weight forward is not as delicate as a double taper because there is a more powerful presentation of the fly.
The double taper really doesn't have a running line. It has a long gradual front and rear taper and a long belly. This line is good for short to medium casting distances. Because it doesn't shoot out line like a weight forward, many people believe that the double taper makes a more delicate presentation and is well suited for dry fly fishing. The double taper is also your most economical line in that you reverse it at years end on your reel and you have a fresh line. Remember the double taper is a mirror image so you just flip flop it for extended use.
In summary, my advice is to go with a weight forward or double taper floating line. The weight forward probably has more uses and is the better overall line. If your interest are dry fly fishing, then I'd get an extra spool with double taper it.
Leaders. This is a topic that is probably the subject of several columns but I'm going to keep it brief. The leader transfers the energy form the fly line to the fly. A properly constructed leader unfurls and delicately lays the fly on the water. This is done by stepping down the diameter of the leader. In years past this was done by knotting together differing lengths and diameters of leader material. Today, with advent of the miracle known as plastic, machines extrude the plastic to form a knotless leader. My recommendation is to buy the knotless leader unless you absolutely feel you have to struggle like your forefathers with the blood knot.
The next decision is determining the length of leader you want to use. Most leaders come in 7 1/2 and 9 foot lengths. Use the shorter leader when you are fishing wet flies or streamers. The 9 foot leader is the ticket for dry fly fishing and nymphing. You may have to lengthen or shorten the leader depending upon the particular fishing circumstances you face.
Tippet. The tippet forms the last 12 inches or so of the leader. The tippet is tied to the fly. When you buy a 4x or 6x leader it is referring to the tippet size. So your next question is probably, "What size tippet do I use?" The answer grasshopper is The Rule of Three. Take the size of your fly and divide by three. For example, a size 12 fly should be fished with a 4x tippet. A size 14 fly can be fished with a 4x or 5x tippet. Don't go to a smaller diameter tippet unless you absolutely believe the fish are leader shy. If your fly is too big for the diameter of the tippet, the leader won't turn over properly, giving a poor presentation. You should not be throwing #10-12 flies with 6x or 7x tippet. Stick with the Rule of Three.
Obviously as you are chopping off flies, or in my case breaking off the line in snags or overhanging trees, your tippet will shorten. What to do? First, before you start fishing, chop off the first 8-12 inches of the new leader. This is the tippet. Replace it with 12-18 inches of like diameter tippet material. Now you have put a knot in your leader, which will let you know how much of your tippet you have used up. If you break off and the knot is still there, then your leader length is probably okay. If the break is above the knot then you know you have to do a little leader repair to get it the right length and taper. Obviously, you can measure leader length off of your rod.
A few last points on tippet. Buy fresh tippet each season. Second, check your leader and tippet for nicks and abrasions. If you've just pulled that fly out of the trees check it for nicks and replace. You deserve losing that nice fish if you are too lazy to replace the dinged tippet.
Well once again its time to sign off. I have covered equipment on a very general level. From time to time I may get into more depth regarding certain aspects about equipment, but now it's time to turn our thoughts to fishing. See you at the club outing, |