| I would first like to thank Bob Temper and Steve Antonic for purchasing many sale items from Dan Bailey's Fly Shop in Livingston to be used in our raffle and banquet. Also, Caesar Carnaghi and Joseph Aimonette for transporting it home. And I'm telling you, if not for Mike Webb, the trip wouldn't have happened for me. He set up our flight, lodging and guide on the Missouri. Thanks to all!!!!
I'll try not to repeat what Mike had already told ya'll in the last newsletter, but possibly put a different perspective on how a "Montana Virgin" would see this wonderful place with childlike wonderment and sometimes actions.
Flying into Bozeman via Minneapolis/St.Paul on Northwest airlines Thursday was quite different(small airport). Smoke filled mountains were seen throughout our trip from the 2000 Western Fires and greeted us upon arrival. My first suggestion is to find a cheap cooler after getting your rental car. Ours served us well! Our drive to Livingston was brought to climax by my first sight of the Yellowstone River. I had finally made it!
After finding some of our fellow Ozarkians at the Conclave school grounds and discovering my first place photo win, we made our way to check in at the famous Murray Hotel. Neat old historic place, parking sucks! Steve called me a few days before leaving St.Louis to fill us in on weather (it was 95-100+ instead of 75. Normally, you would pack polar fleece) and fishing info before leaving home and mentioned the Murray Bar seemed to be the hotspot for us (and was) of who's who.
The 9th Street Bridge was the call for fishing that evening after leaving the live auction and our friends at the Civic Center. They had run out of food several times, I had no money and it was very warm inside. Trico, caddis, pheasant tail, prince nymphs,"lightning bugs" and MICE at night! I didn't bring one. I fished Cracklebacks, midge patterns, soft hackles, buggers and brown mohair leeches on a 9' 5wt St. Croix Ultra Legend. I also brought a Redington Red Start 8/9wt. for chucking and ducking. Life was good and I was in Montana with my first fish on the end of my line.
My "fishing skills" had to be shared with my other love, photography. I had all intentions of keeping a daily written journal, but instead kept a photo journal (another tip). My memory is foggy when so much is done in such a short period of time (sometimes being alcohol induced.) I carried a good 35 mm w/APS and zoom, 35 mm with black and white, 35 mm disposable w/APS for my vest or chestpack, a video camera with 2 batteries and a tripod. I ended up with 10 rolls of film, an hour long video and another hernia. Overkill, but I'm glad I did it. A few pictures will be entered in next years contest.
Another interest of mine is entomology (bug huntin'). Friday morning, I found many live 2in. salmon flies and spent casings as well along the Yellowstone. When the hatch comes off earlier in the year it must look like 747s flying in your face. I swear a few had serial numbers!
After getting a glimpse of Paradise Valley and the Absaroka/Beartooth Mountains, we came to the original entrance to Yellowstone Park in Gardiner Montana. Passing by the rebirth of the 1988 fires gave us hope for the present "matchbox" problems in the West. The drive into the park takes you past Ponderosa Pines, sulfur pits, mud volcanoes, geysers, steam vents, elk, bison and many clueless tourist. Our destination, Pelican Creek.
Mike and I both used our backpacks as our carry-ons. I had fishing gear, change of clothes, meds and contacts with me just in case our baggage lost us on the plane(tip). We were now geared up for a hike into the forest. Lightweight pants, sunscreen/bug repellent, chestpack and hiking boots were very helpful. It's not advisable to bring food to a place where the Grizzly lives but do pack water and a compass. Next, actually use the compass before starting your hike(tip). I didn't! Just in case we were not alone we tried to make a little noise along the way(tip). Don't know where we went wrong, but the trail disappeared and so did our hopes of fishing that beautiful creek that day. The company was good and so is life. The storm on the way back drove us to Livingston (the storms come up quick, so have a rain jacket). Ended up on the Yellowstone again and had my first and only Cutt ever and saw my partner also doing very well. Line eating rip rap edge the river. If you have a stripping basket, bring it(tip).
Trying to get a meal in Livingston after 10 PM or almost anytime was a feat in itself. We finally had a wonderful dinner with the Temper's and Antonic's at "Uncle Looie's Ristorante" and breakfast at the train depot diner the following morning after hearing a band doing long forgotten "Grateful Dead" and "Little Feat" tunes the night before.
You must see the International Fly Fishing Center at the Lincoln School, Dan Bailey's, George Anderson's Yellowstone Angler and any other fly shop in town to purchase their flies for local patterns and info(tip). I brought my vise and materials, but didn't have time to tie.
We spent the next day "Conclaving." Having my brush with famous names such as Kreh, Wulff, Krieger, Aimonette, Clark, Carnaghi, Smith, Hargrove (you get the picture) brought us to another foodless FFF barbecue. Sharing "Moose Drool" with Jerry and company was very memorable though.
After a tip from Tom Hargrove, we made our way through the Gallatin Forest Sunday morning to Falls Creek Campground on the scenic Boulder River where Tom and Steven Hovis had been hiding out. Still wiping the scotch out of their eyes, they gave us flies tied the previous night by lantern light and the lowdown on the river. My first brook trout ever were taken on that day from one of the most beautiful stretches of water I have ever seen. Mike led the way under absolute bluebird skies with Contact Mountain (10,007 ft.) as our background. No smoke in sight. Large salmon flies were prevalent on this section of water as well. Scattered here and there at the base of the mountain were lovely A-frames that blended into the surroundings. Who owns these places? We fished hard until seeing signs of a much larger presence. We waded back and did our laundry at the camp water pump. Life is good.
Our drive to Craig, as Mike said, was incredible! We really knew things were bad when a chopper with a water bucket passed overhead. You could actually smell the hardwood burning! I can't fathom 12-14' snow drifts in a place that now resembled the Mars landscape. I think it's probably the picture in my mind of the Missouri River in St. Charles that totally contrasts what it's like in Montana. It's big, intimidating and gin clear. It definitely wasn't as affected by the drought like the Blackfoot and Madison were. Some tributaries were bone dry. I have never seen anything like what the next 3 1/2 days brought on. Life is good.
I can't say enough about the Missouri River Trout Shop and Lodge. Good food, nice facilities, friendly folks, highly recommended (big tip)!
Our meeting with Tim Plaska of Missouri River Expeditions Monday morning was pretty much how I envisioned him, worn waders, burley beard and all. The sky and water was full of life and death that morning at Holter Dam. I can't really describe the feeding frenzy. It looked like the fish were feeding on an oil slick rather than thousands of spent tricos and the dance continued in air. This was my first guided drift boat trip, but I had more luck with photography than fishing that day. The back of a drift boat has many things to hook your line around. So, if you still have that stripping basket handy, this is a great time to use it (another big tip). I did manage to land one really nice brown and hooked into a really big fish while wading off a confluence past an island. After it jumped 3 foot out of the water and broke me off, I turned around to see Tim shaking his head. "Had a bigin' didnja?" he asked. After picking my jaw up out of the water, all I could say was "yep." "Whatcha usin?" "My last brown mohair leech." I have never felt fish with shoulders like Montana fish do in Missouri or Arkansas. It's unreal!
Our wonderful shore lunch consisted of prawn cocktails, pasta salad, soda pop and pound cake with strawberries and whipped cream and lots of jaw jacking. Life is very good. I would however take additional beverages of your choice.(tip) I would have killed for a bottle of water. A bottle with a filter would have been ideal (a tip to myself and hint to my wife for my birthday).
Pelicans, heron and hawks filled the sky and wild horses, cattle and mountain goats roamed the terrain. We took out at Craig Bridge. It was BEER THIRTY!
Each night we would call our wives from the only phone in Craig I think. It's located outside, next to a neon "Bud" sign in the lodge dining room window and had hundreds of trico, pmd and chartreuse midges every night doing their mating ritual on the glass. We really weren't the only perverts staying at the place witnessing this, trust me. We did however smoke a cigar afterwards.
We went the following morning back to the Holter Dam "oil slick." We had high horizontal winds and the largest trico hatch I have ever seen. It felt like someone throwing gravel at you while every orifice on your head is being stuffed with live bugs by some unseen annoying hand. At times it really hurt. Incredible!
Fishing awesome rises from various access points and landing fish that you've worked for what seemed and may have been hours taxed us Wednesday. I found endless numbers of 1 1/2- 2' spent caddis casings. (anyone know how to clean them up)? Time out was in order as we headed west, cameras in hand.
The further west into the Helena National Forest (which was actually closed internally) we headed, the sun started a magic act. Sometimes looking like an orange/red tennis ball to totally disappearing from the salmon colored sky. We stopped at the Blackfoot River, found porcupine remains (another first) and dipped a line. Mike quickly hooked into a whitefish and brown trout. Again we set out. Heading into Lincoln, you could tell the town folk and wildlife were equally stressed. Each afraid of losing their homes. Deer ran in the streets through town. Quite a few of the rivers and access points we wanted to fish were closed! It was time to turn back and cross the Continental Divide at Rogers Pass again. It's BEER O'CLOCK!
After having dinner at "Hookers Bar and Grill"(across the road from the lodge) I treated Mike with a taste of scotch back in our room. After that, I packed some and found myself back at Hooker's swapping stories and flies until all hours of the morning with independent local guide Jim Kirkpatrick. He actually convinced me I was on the right track with my oversized streamers. He swore putting match the hatch flies into the midst of a billion flies was silly. Giving them something just a hair bigger or totally different, but with a good presentation made the difference (I think a good tip). Scott Sanchez at Dan Bailey's sold me on the "Double Bunny" years ago by winning the Jackson Hole One Fly contest. I tied some up months ago after meeting him at Feather-Craft and never fished one (not a good tip). So what does this all mean? Remember the mice? Big flies, big fish!
I probably did miss the best fishing Thursday morning as Mike said, but I wouldn't trade the chance meeting and hangover for anything. Maybe I met someone that confirmed something I already knew or at least felt but never acted on. I'm sure more than one bass fisher has caught a large fish on a Budweiser plug! Be different when times are tough.
The drive to the airport was something else. In between bouts of unconsciousness, I somehow focused long enough to take some good shots and short video of a fire somewhere between Helena and Bozeman. We knew we were cutting it pretty close with the rented Explorer (and our luck with the Firestone Wilderness Tires) and our flight, but we made it. Leaving Montana made me well up (or was that realizing I left my spare video battery and charger in Craig) and reality was near. The storm we flew through and the additional stop for fuel in Fargo, along with the sprint through Minn/St.Paul airport to get our connecting flight didn't help matters.
Please, if you go to this magical place do clean your waders, boots, net and anything else that may have been contaminated by whirling disease spores. We were given bottles of "Bright Water"made by Scott at the conclave barbecue and I have since used it. Nobody wants to be a "Typhoid Mary!"
I think I came away with a pretty good travel log and some new friends and acquantances. Mission accomplished! Perhaps someday I'll return to "Big Sky Country" and still be able to go there with the eyes of a child, but perhaps a bit wiser.
I hope our Montana experiences help the next club virgin in some small way.
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